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To Serum or Not to Serum?

Writer's picture: NataliaNatalia


Not my own work but taken from a professional article, which I hope you may find instructive. The full original article may be found by following the link given at the end of this blog.


Facial serums play an important role in skincare routines, acting as the main activity; similar to a boiling pot in cooking using the same analogy, they are similar to saucepan lid that helps cooking happen faster and more effectively, by sealing in heat. A moisturizer complements the serum's benefits by providing a protective layer for the skin. There isn't a one-size-fits-all serum, as they occur in several types such as antioxidant, hydrating, anti-aging, brightening, or exfoliating serums. Each type serves specific skincare needs and should be used based on individual requirements and preferences.


The types of serums are:


The oil serum is the easiest to create among all facial serums. Typically, it begins with a foundation of high-quality, rapidly absorbing carrier oils, often termed as "dry" oils. Alongside providing moisturizing and barrier-repairing properties, these premium oils incorporated into the serum also encompass polyphenols, essential fatty acids, and other compounds that can be assimilated by the skin


Gel serums provide the skin a "tightening" sensation, giving your consumer the impression that their skin is momentarily lifted or tightened in particular regions of the face.


Water based serums are akin to gel serums, though they may contain minimal or no gums and thickeners. To deliver potent hydrophilic plant extracts that adhere to the skin beneath a cream or lotion, you would utilize a water-based facial serum. Layering an anti aging facial mist beneath an emulsion and subsequently beneath an oil is the optimal method to enhance the penetration of water-based compounds into the skin


An emulsion based facial serum acts as a moisturizer that fortifies the skin's barrier function while also imparting potent ingredients to the skin. Emulsions combine two "immiscible" phases—such as oil and water naturally resist mixing. The most effective method for deeply delivering high-performance actives into the skin's tissues is through an emulsion.

Despite the skin's resilient barrier function, penetrating the dermis with cosmetic components remains a formidable task, yet an emulsion of oil and water is uniquely equipped to achieve this remarkable feat. Additionally, the moisturizing properties of the emulsion further enhance the skin's barrier function.


A pressed balm serum features a traditional balm foundation comprising of various butters, waxes, and oils, alongside active ingredients that are oil-soluble (lipophilic) and offer potential skin benefits. The combination of butters and waxes creates a protective barrier on the skin, providing hydration and nourishment, while enabling the active components of the pressed serum to effectively perform their functions. Within a balm serum, numerous captivating unique butters and waxes can be blended with a vast array of exceptional plant oils.


Advantages of serums: Improve skin texture, Minimizes the skin pores, Hydrates and nourishes the skin, Improve skin elasticity


Disadvantages: The gel or liquid like serum texture is an unsuitable for people who have skin condition that are chronic like eczema or rosacea, that weakens the skin barrier. For these skin types, a serum may penetrate too quickly, causing irritation


Serums for Oily Skin


Dealing with oily skin often leads to acne breakouts, which can result in scarring. To address this issue effectively, focus on calming the skin, reducing irritation, and inflammation. Opt for a gentle serum that can help manage pimples without causing further skin issues. Consider using a niacinamide-based serum as a daytime moisturizer, especially in warmer months, as it provides nourishment without the heavy, greasy feel commonly associated with cream-based moisturizers (1)


Serums for Sensitive Skin


Sensitive skin requires gentle care to avoid irritation and dryness. Vitamin C is a beneficial ingredient, but opt for Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, a stable and milder form of vitamin C compared to L-Ascorbic Acid commonly found in skincare products. Additionally, serums containing hyaluronic acid and peptides, naturally produced by the body, are excellent choices for sensitive skin due to their soothing and hydrating properties.


Serums for Combination Skin


Combination skin, characterized by both dry and oily areas, benefits from serums designed to balance these contrasting needs. Choose for serums containing vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, and peptides to help maintain skin equilibrium and address both dryness and oiliness effectively. These ingredients work together to keep your skin nourished and harmonized (2).


The article is taken from the following work:


Sweta Joshi, Hricha Joshi, Priyanka, Shaurya Kamal, Unlocking the Power of Nature: A Comprehensive Review of Herbal Face Serums, Int. J. of Pharm. Sci., 2024, Vol 2, Issue 4, 1106-1122. https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.11074180


(1) Amnuaikit, T., Khakhong, S., &Khongkow, P., Formulation development and facial skin evaluation of serum containing jellose from tamarind seeds, Journal of Pharmaceutical Research International, 2019; 31(4):1-14. doi: 10.9734/jpri/2019/v31i430306


(2) Surber, C., & Kottner, J., Skin care products: What do they promise, what do they deliver. Journal of tissue viability, 2017 ;26(1): 29-36. doi: 10.1016/j.jtv.2016.03.006




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