The first consumer encounter with stem cell technology in cosmetics began with skin and hair care products containing active ingredients derived from plant stem cells. The manufacturers of these products often failed to disclose that the term “stem cell” in the label of their under eye cream or night serum, referred to stem cell extracts of plant origin. More than a decade ago, research groups presented evidence supporting the regenerative effects of different plant stem cells and their extracts on fibroblasts, keratinocytes and isolated hair follicles.
It is doubtful whether the actual benefits of the hundreds of commercial products containing plant stem cell extracts, mixed with various ingredients and preservatives, can be consistent. The validity of the anti-aging and regenerative claims varies vastly between these products, depending on the formulation. Fortunately, the worst case scenario when buying such products is the possibility of being a victim of false advertising, as no serious side effects are caused by the plant extracts.
Our next encounter with stem cell-cosmetics was with mammalian stem cells, in the form of procedures using autologous stem cells (that is, taken from one's own stem cells). The most promoted and widely used autologous regenerative procedure is platelet rich plasma (PRP). Although this procedure does not involve actual stem cells, it is often marketed as a stem cell-based regenerative treatment.
Allogenic stem cell use in cosmetics is primarily using stem cells of human or animal origin for the mass production of stem cell-derived products. Currently, there is a number of products made from stem cell condition media, or a specific fraction, in the form of tropical creams or serums or intradermal injections. This is based on the claims that the constituents of the condition media, including cytokines, growth factors and exosomes, will initiate the required cellular pathways for tissue regeneration. (Personal note: Not to mention, the importance of knowing which animals are the source as there may be ethical or religious considerations)
For skin and hair, in particular, there is a considerable number of publications supporting the claim that stem cell condition media have a measurable effect when used to treat skin damage or hair loss. Notably, these studies also report significant inconsistencies in the outcomes depending on the method used for cell isolation, medium collection, medium processing, and mode of application.
Thousands of businesses globally are engaged in direct-to-consumer marketing of stem cell-derived products or stem cell-based procedures. Some of which are mis-labelled as stem cell-related, while others do involve stem cells, but are not yet clinically proven or adequately regulated.
it is vital that we are informed about the requirements and the processes of a cosmetic product or procedure approval, as well as the gaps within the system. For example, an approved laser machine for cellulite removal indicates that the machine is relatively safe, but it does not mean that it actually eliminates cellulite! This is important so that we can inform and educate ourselves about the product or procedure they intend to purchase, and report any suspected malpractices.
Using stem cells in cosmetic applications cannot be dismissed as trivial. Improving peoples’ aesthetic concerns can significantly improve their quality of life. Conditions such as facial acne scars or lupus bald patches can be detrimental to anyone's self-perception and body image, which could have serious consequences. The addition of a profitable, commercial arm will push the entire field of stem cell research forward. Due to the growing demand, companies within the cosmetic industry are investing more in research and development of new stem cell related products and applications.
NOT MY OWN WORK! - Taken from:
Al-Sowayan BS, Al-Shareeda AT. Stem cells and the pursuit of youth, a tale of limitless possibilities and commercial fraud. World J Biol Chem. 2021 Jul 27;12(4):52-56. doi: 10.4331/wjbc.v12.i4.52. PMID: 34354805; PMCID: PMC8316836.
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