This is another article which I hope will be of interest and looks at various skin care topics. These articles are based on information from open access professional research, so not my own work. The original work is quoted in the citations mentioned below each article.
Salicylic Acid (SA) has been used to treat various skin disorders for many, many years. SA is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) and found in willow bark and wintergreen leaves and SA is, generally, better for oily or acne-prone skin. Glycolic Acid is a Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) as found in sugar cane, which is (again, generally) more appropriate for dry or sensitive skin.
Glycolic Acid can improve skin texture, reduce fine lines and wrinkles as well as fading dark spots and acne scars. However, it can cause irritation and increase sun sensitivity and requires the extensive use of sunscreen, irrespective of weather or climate. Both Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids can be made in the laboratory.
The ability of Salicylic Acid to exfoliate the stratum corneum makes it a good agent for peeling. In particular, the comedolytic (ability to not block pores) property of Salicylic Acid makes it a useful peeling agent for those with acne.
Once considered as a keratolytic (ability to get rid of skin cells and flakes) agent, the role of Salicylic Acid as a desmolytic (breaks skin cell bonds, to (amongst other things) improve absorption of further treatment) agent, because of its ability to disrupt cellular junctions rather than breaking or lysing intercellular keratin filaments, is now recognised. Salicylic acid as a peeling agent has a number of indications, including acne vulgaris, melasma, photodamage, freckles, and lentigines.
Chemical peeling is a safe, efficacious, and cost-effective procedure for treating various skin disorders and for enhancing cosmetic appearance as long as, the peel is carried out by a qualified health or skin care professional.
The principle of peeling involves controlled chemical injury to the skin in order to prompt it to rejuvenate, leading to smoothening of the skin and improvement of its surface texture (1). Chemical peels can be divided into three broad categories, that is: superficial, medium-depth, and deep. Superficial peels cause injury to the epidermis, so are used to treat superficial conditions, including melasma (coloured patches and spots) and acne. Medium-depth peels penetrate to the papillary dermis (the part under the epidermis or outer skin layer), and are useful in the treatment of sun burn effects, dyschromias (skin colour changes), and pigment disorders. Deep peels go to the level of the reticular dermis, (the thick, bottom layer of the skin) so are indicated for deep wrinkles, severe photoaging, and deep scars. (1)
Depending on the reason for the peel, the concentration may be varied. Examples are 0.5%–10% for acne, 3%–6% for Hyperkeratotic disorders like psoriasis, ichthyoses, keratosis pilaris, 5%–40% for warts and corns, 50% for actinic damage and pigmented lesions. The strength for superficial chemical peeling of the face should be up to 30%, subject to professional advice and application. (2)
Peels you can do yourself and at home are going to be of limited strength and should not be any more than 20%
Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 455–461. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S84765
(1) RendonMiBersonDSCohenJIRobertsWEStarkerIWangBEvidence and considerations in the application of chemical peels in skin disorders and aesthetic resurfacingJ Clin Aesthet Dermatol20103324320725555
(2) GrimesPESalicylic acidTostiAGrimesPEPadovaMPColor Atlas of Chemical Peels2nd edNew York, NY, USASpringer-Verlag2006
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