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Peels and Me

Writer's picture: NataliaNatalia

Updated: Nov 24, 2024



Chemical peeling is a quite frequent procedure that is used for the treatment of photo aging skin, deep wrinkles and fine lines, acne scars and to improve the skin vitality, tonus and texture. Chemical peeling is the most frequent derma-esthetic procedure in the world. During this procedure different acidic solutions are used (Salicylic Acid, Lactic Acid, Glycolic Acid) on the skin in order to stimulate the skin exfoliation, depigmentation and revitalisation through promotion of the Glucosaminoglicans, fibroblasts and remodelling of the elastin and collagen fibres. This treatment is widely used today as an alternative of lasers or derma abrasions procedures.


Of course, the maximum efficiency would be if you organise a treatment plan and make the combination treatments with other procedures such are fractional laser or derma abrasion.


Peeling with 20-40% Glycolic Acid, a peeling procedure often referred to as the "lunch time procedure’’. This procedure is relatively quick and eliminates several layers of epidermis and improves the smoothness of the layers of the skin effectively and rapidly. The procedure is helpful for acne prone skin and improves the tone and texture of the skin. This procedure can also be effective in treating acne scars and helps increase absorption of treatment creams and serums.


The AHA, BHA (Alpha Hydroxyl Acid and Beta Hydroxyl Acid) are organic acids which realise exfoliation and improve the cell circle-turn over. There are two main results of the application of these acids in the skin: acceleration of cell cycles (which is slow with aging) and improves the stratum corneum smoothness. This peeling reactivates circulation in the skin: a) stimulation of fibroblasts; b) increase and stimulate the glucosamins; c) increases dermal turgor (force within the cells) and d) eliminates easily the corneal layer of epidermis.


Peeling with Salicylic Acid, which is a simple peeling, is very easy to apply and is less time consuming. This is an effective procedure in treating acne and acne prone skin.


Peeling with 10% Trichloracetic Acid (TCA) can be increased in concentration over time in order to have more benefits from the procedure. This peeling helps clean deeply clogged pores, control and treat effectively severe acne. It also eliminates (or make less visible) signs of early aging, improves significantly skin texture and skin discolorations giving a better appearance also smoothes and revitalises the skin. This also helps eliminate the signs of photo aging, appearing as dark and white colours.


Medium peeling: For the skin that is more damaged by radiation, this is suggested. The application of medium peeling procedures help the product penetrate deeper with an improvement to be seen in the middle layers of the skin. This can cause the procedure to be uncomfortable (caused by skin redness and desquamation) depending on how large the areas treated are; repair of the skin is seen 5-7 days after the procedure.


Trichloracetic Acid (TCA) 10-40% is a peeling that improves the fine wrinkles, discolorations and makes the skin smoother and more youthful in appearance. But in the 10-15% concentration peeling does not act on deep wrinkles or scars. Applying in higher concentration (35-40%) can cause epidermal necrosis without serious systemic toxicity. A TCA solution of 35-40% is standard for medium peeling of face and hands. In these concentrations should be used by qualified doctors and special care should be employed after peeling as it can cause hyper pigmentations and scars.


Glycolic acid 50-70% is also used for the same purposes with the same application procedure as the TCA peel.


Post peeling procedures is very important especially for medium or deep peeling. Superficial peeling eliminates partly the epidermis and the you may notice the improvements from peeling and redness after a 48-72 hour period. It’s important to note that during the process of care after peeling, you have to keep the skin hydrated by applying specific post-peeling moisturiser creams and protect from UV radiation through the use of creams with SPF protection factor (in summer or sunny days, one must cover the treated skin). The improvement of wrinkles are usually seen in about two months as the process of remodelling the elastin and collagen fibres need this period of time.


The peeling procedure is a valuable method for aged skin, photo aging, acne scars and melasma. Peeling, save for "home use" peels, must be performed by a dermatologist or fully qualified skin care professional so always check qualifications! Pre peeling preparation of the skin is very important to prepare the skin for this procedure which may be archived by applying a mask with acids twice a week (again, subject to professional recommendation!). Caring of the skin after procedure is also very important for the success of the treatment.


NOT MY OWN WORK. The above is taken from the following article. The article, as published, has not been translated well into English so I have tried to establish a better meaning for the purposes of the above:


Grajqevci-Kotori M, Kocinaj A. Exfoliative Skin-peeling, Benefits from This Procedure and Our Experience. Med Arch. 2015 Dec;69(6):414-6. doi: 10.5455/medarh.2015.69.414-416. PMID: 26843737; PMCID: PMC4720453.





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