The subject of stem cells requires more consideration. Again, this is not my own work. It is taken from a professional article, the citation for which (and well worth a read) is shown at the foot of this post.
A new wave of cosmetic ingredients containing plant stem cells and their extracts has made its way into the industry. What role do these ingredients play in affecting the aging skin? Several ancient practices such as Ayurveda have used plants as a mainstay of treatment for thousands of years. Plant stem cells could hold an interesting role if we can harness these benefits in cosmetics to create safe and effective organic topical skin care.
Plants are equipped with a robust mechanism for regeneration of their tissues under stress. Significant efforts have been put into understanding this mechanism in the expanding field of plant biotechnology (1). In animals, tissue regeneration occurs following a wound stimulus, resulting in the initiation of organ repair. By contrast, the regenerative efforts made by the plants are not only for tissue repair from damage, but also for the development of a new plant (2). In other words, cutting the branch of a tree also results in a new bud/branch growth.
Aging of skin is a complex process involving all layers of the epidermis and dermis, comprising denaturing proteins and reduced functioning of regenerative stem cells. Stem cell location in the epidermis is divided into basal layer stem cells and interfollicular stem cells.
Animals uphold a stem cell pool as mother cells with the capability of continuous differentiation into any type of more specialised cells for various tissues in the body, such as heart muscles, skin tissues and liver tissues. However, in plants this process is more adaptable to establish stem cell niches in new locations.
A significant challenge for the cosmetic industry is to provide functional, innovative and safe products with a longer shelf life. Due to the objectionable use of human or animal sources, all cosmetic research and development for new products is consequently focused on biotechnology and plant cell culture technology to overcome the industrial, consumer and legislative constraints. Plants of cosmetic interest have been limited for use due to slow growth, seasonal harvest, variation of active concentration from plant to plant and harvest to harvest and existence of toxic metabolites.
Tomato cultured stem cells from the plant Lycopersicon esculentum have shown significant potential in protecting skin from heavy metal toxicity (3). A hydrosoluble cosmetic active was produced from liquid cultures of L. esculentum with much higher concentrations of some flavonoids and phenolic acids such as rutin, coumaric, protocatechuic and chlorogenic acids. The tomato stem cell extract contained a high content of antioxidants and metal-chelating compound phytochelatins, which capture metals and prevent the damage of the cellular structures, and suggest other remarkable applications in skin care cosmetic formulations to support healthy skin (4).
Refined ginger consists of active plant cells made from the medicinal Asian ginger plant using a specific biotechnology mixing plant cell dedifferentiation and a plant cell culture controlling the synthesis of active molecules inside cells. A clinical study, as reported by the manufacturer, performed on 22 women indicated an improvement of around 50% in skin structure by pore reduction and a mattifying effect revealed by a reduction of shininess by 15% after 6 h and a reduction of sebum by 19% after 28 days. In vitro test results have shown an increase in the synthesis of elastin and fibers and reduced sebum production rate (5).
Terminology is crucial in claims made by cosmeceuticals, for example, understanding that when the term ‘plant stem cell’ is used as an ingredient, it actually refers to the extract of the primitive cell. Many skin care companies are promoting their products with the claim of utilising stem cell technology. Almost all cosmetic companies advertising to contain stem cells in their products actually contain stem cell extracts and not the live stem cells.
Although research on plant stem cells used in skin care reveals their potential as skin protectives, antiaging and antiwrinkle products, the actual stem cells in cosmetic formulations are already dead. Extracts from stem cells cannot act in the same way as the live stem cells. Claimed benefits of smooth and firm skin are due to antioxidants AND active extracts from stem cells. (my italics). To gain all the authentic benefits from stem cells and to let them work the way they are promised to in skin care applications, they need to be incorporated as live cells and should remain so while in the cosmetic formulation. Incorporating stem cells in a carrier which can assist the cells to penetrate deep into the skin to provide an actual cosmetic benefit is another challenge to be addressed. Plant stem cell therapy needs to move in the right direction to implement its inherent potential in skin care.
Ancient herbal sciences such as Ayurveda and Oriental Chinese Medicine have used plants as their mainstay for the treatment of chronic ailments, acute inflammation and for healing. In current times, for innovative cosmetic scientists, the goal is to connect the evidence from ancient practices to evidence in modern science and see where the application of plants in cosmetics can improve the delivery to the skin in a more effective, safer and targeted way. Plant science in this vein is currently in its infancy and research in herbal biotechnology and physiologic effects on the skin could open new doors in cosmetics. An interesting aspect for future research will be the discovery of actives of phytohormones that act directly or influence repair pathways for human tissues. It is possible in the future to combine and expand our understanding of the basis of Ayurvedic and ancient medicine with its use of plant herbs to shed more light on cutting-edge scientific research.
The above post is taken from:
Trehan, S., Michniak-Kohn, B., & Beri, K. (2017). Plant Stem Cells in Cosmetics: Current Trends and Future Directions. Future Science OA, 3(4). https://doi.org/10.4155/fsoa-2017-0026
References:
(1) Xu L, Huang H. Genetic and epigenetic controls of plant regeneration. Curr. Top. Dev. Biol. 108, 1–33 (2014).
(2) Su YH, Zhang XS. The hormonal control of regeneration in plants. Curr. Top. Dev. Biol. 108, 35–69 (2014).
(3) Barbulova A, Apone F, Colucci G. Plant cell cultures as source of cosmetic active ingredients. Cosmetics 1(2), 94–104 (2014).
(4) Tito A, Carola A, Bimonte M et al. A tomato stem cell extract containing antioxidant compounds and metal chelating factors protects skin cells from heavy metal-induced damages. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 33(6), 543–552 (2011).
(5) Naolys: Refine ginger restores skin texture. www.naolys.com/media/refine_ginger_en.pdf(open in a new window).
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