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Exfoliate Away!

Updated: 1 day ago

Human skin consists of three layers, the epidermis, the dermis, & the subcutaneous. The process of exfoliation and skin cell renewal occurs in epidermis. The stratum corneum is the outermost layer of skin which prevents water loss also protects underlying tissue from infection, chemical and mechanical stress. Exfoliation occurs naturally as cell detached from skin. Replacement of corneum cells occurs by a self-renewal process as epidermal cells move upward from the basal layer, the stratum basalis, from the next two layers, the stratum spinosum and stratum, to succeed in the corneum. This process takes about four weeks, although it takes time in aging and other skin conditions. Normal peeling occurs invisibly as single corneocytes, or very small aggregates of them, detach from the skin’s surface and starts to shed off.

The slow and weak condition of exfoliation is seen with aging & with other skin conditions. The exfoliation of the skin surface can be renormalised by using cosmeceutical products. The cosmetic exfoliation process helps to remove the dead skin cells, keep the pores clear and remove dirt by providing deep cleansing which helps skin to look more youthful, healthy and soft. Cosmetic exfoliation changes the appearance of the skin surface which also promotes epidermal regeneration.

Mechanical exfoliation is a physical exfoliation process that can be achieved by using scrubs with small exfoliating grainy particles such as pulverized walnut shells, apricot pits, pistachio shells, almond shells, salt crystals. Microfiber cloths, sheet mask, micro-bead facial scrubs, pumice stone, abrasive sponges and brushes. The abrasive particles help to exfoliate dead skin cells, loosen the outer corneocytes of the stratum corneum. The result will vary depending on the amount of friction and the nature of abrasive is used in cosmetic formulation. Gentle exfoliation can be achieved with microbead scrubs. Microbeads are made of polyethylene, polypropylene, polystyrene but microbeads can cause plastic particle water pollution and are dangerous for aquatic animals in the ocean and freshwater. Several countries have banned the use of microbeads in the personal care industry.

Microdermabrasion is a mechanical process in which light cosmetic procedures are used to remove the dead skin cells from the epidermis. It removes the stratum corneum which is the outermost layer of epidermis. It also affects epidermis and dermis deeper layers. Microdermabbrasion causes a re-arrangement of melanosomes in epidermis basal layer, flattening of rete ridges at the dermal epidermal junction, increased in collagen fibre density at dermal epidermal junction, along with vascular ectasia in reticular dermis. It also results into upregulation of wound healing transcription factors and dermis matrix metalloproteinases. The procedure is performed in two parts. Some exfoliating material like crystal or diamond flakes are used and in other part machine-based suction gently lift up the skin during exfoliation. It is a simple, easy, painless, non-invasive skin rejuvenation procedure.

The safest method of microdermabrasion involves the use of corundum or aluminium oxide crystals suspended in an antioxidant cream. Aluminium oxide crystal do not cause allergic reaction and it is chemically inert and is not absorbed by the skin. Moreover, it has got bactericidal properties which can be used for exfoliating acne porn skin.

Another method which is same as microdermabrasion is hydra dermabrasion. This method instead of exfoliating with propelled microcrystals it uses combination of oxygen and aqueous solution at supersonic speed which removes debris and dead cells which are then suctioned away results into hydration and cleansing of skin. These can be used on darker skin, aging skin, sensitive skin, oily as well as dry skin complexions. These procedure results into increased epidermal and papillary dermal thickness, improvement in elastic dermal tissue, collagen hyalinization, fibroblast density and reduction in fine lines, pore size, hyperpigmentation with overall improvement in skin quality

Chemical exfoliation methods include acids, non-acid peels, enzymes, or other active chemicals. This exfoliation includes the use of creams, lotion, serums, and gels. They also include scrubs containing salicylic acid, glycolic acid, fruit enzymes, citric acid, or malic acid which may be applied in high concentrations by a dermatologist but now in many cosmetic preparations these actives are used at low concentration. Chemical exfoliation involves the use of products that contain alpha-hydroxy acid (AHAs) or beta hydroxy acid (BHAs). The enzymes help to loosen the glue-like substance that holds the cells together and allows them to shed off. Chemical exfoliation improves skin texture, reduces fine lines, hyperpigmentation and treats acne.

Superficial peels penetrates to the epidermal layer only whereas medium depth peels can penetrate through entire epidermis and papillary dermis and deep peels are used to control tissue injury to the mid-reticular dermis and sometimes to the subcutis as well.

Medium depth peels can penetrate papillary dermis up to the reticular dermis over the depth of 450 μm. They are known to cause extensive protein precipitation that results in coagulative necrosis of cells and produce edema and homogenization of papillary dermis. Over 5 days desquamation occurs and gets normal after one week. trichloroacetic acid TCA (35-50%) is mostly used as medium depth peeling agent. This can also be used in 35% in combination with glycolic acid 70% along with Jessner solution

Enzyme Exfoliation can be used from synthetic or from natural sources. They dissolve skin cells and break down the keratin (protein in dead skin cells) which promote the cell renewal process. Plant enzymes are different from AHAs and BHAs as they work by dissolving upper layer of dead skin cell. The enzymes are tiny molecules found in fruits like pumpkins, cherries, papaya, and pineapple. Papain from papaya, bromelain from pineapple and enzyme from pumpkin are proteolytic enzymes that stimulate exfoliation by digesting intercorneocyte cohesion and softening of skin. They can be used as an alternative to acid peels which is safe for people with sensitivity who cannot tolerate chemical or acidic peels.

Ideal properties for exfoliating agents: 