This open access article looks at some of the main ingredients in eye care creams. It is not my own work as the article below is taken from the professional article which is cited at the bottom of the page. I would recommend reading the article in full as it contains more detailed information about the individual ingredients. Italics, here, are mine.
Periorbital skin (the skin around the eyes) has a unique physiology, as it is the thinnest and most dynamic of the entire body. In some patients, the thickness of this skin measure as little as 0.2 mm The orbicularis oculi muscle (a flat, broad muscle that opens and closes the eyes) is intimately intertwined with the eyelid dermis, and there is minimal subcutaneous fat present between the muscle and skin layers.
Periocular skin is especially susceptible to damage from sun exposure and other extrinsic factors including smoking, pollution, contact dermatitis, and chronic rubbing due to seasonal allergies.
Eye cream is commonly a safe and effective addition to one’s daily skincare routine, however, due to the inherent structure of the periocular skin, it can be easily irritated by various topical ingredients. An adverse effect of using topical products, such as eye cream, on the periorbital region is contact dermatitis. Some individuals are genetically more susceptible to more intense and frequent reactions to topical products, colloquially termed as having sensitive skin. The dosing of the products reviewed is commonly limited by this reaction. The thinner skin of the eyelid predisposes it to greater allergen absorption, and it is therefore more prone to contact dermatitis than facial skin.
The periorbital area is often a target for the reversal of cutaneous aging. Drying, laxity, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation in this region promote the aged appearance of the skin. Of the ingredients reviewed in clinical trials, they were all found to cause a significant change in the skin. Table 1 summarises the composition and mechanism of action of active ingredients commonly found in periocular topicals. Table 2 provides a summary of eye cream active ingredients and the periorbital concern that they address.
Active ingredient | What are they? | How do they work? |
Retinoids Retinols Retinol esters Retinaldehyde | A class of chemical compounds that are composed of, derived from, or structurally or functionally similar to vitamin A | Increase collagen content Normalizes elastic tissue organization Stimulate fibroblast growth potential |
Vitamin C Ascorbyl palmitate Magnesium ascorbyl-phosphate l-ascorbic acid | Most abundant antioxidant available in human skin | Neutralizes oxidative stress Cofactor for collagen synthesis Regeneration of oxidized forms of vitamin E |
Vitamine E a-tocopherol | Lipid-soluble antioxidant (not synthesized by humans, dependent on external intake) | Acts as scavenger for free radicals and lipid peroxyl radicals |
Peptides Palmitoyl-KTTKS Idebenone | Short sequences of amino acids that compose the building blocks for proteins | Support dermal fibroblasts Stimulate collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycan production |
Ceramides | Lipid component of the stratum corneum | Connect the corneocytes of the stratum corneum, essential for forming a waterproof barrier and repair. Prohibit water-bound molecules from freezing or evaporating |
Hyaluronic acid | Nonsulfated glycosaminoglycan found in extracellular matrix | Maintains water reserve, turgor and gaps within extracellular matrix |
Caffeine | Purine alkaloid found naturally in many beverages, such as tea and coffee | Acts as an antioxidant and an anti-inflammatory agent. Promotes apoptosis of damaged cells. Increases skin elasticity and enhances skin barrier function by decreasing TEWL |
Niacinamide | Water-soluble amide isotype of vitamin B3 | Inhibits IL-1, PARP-1, and TNF-α. Antioxidant effects through polyadenosine diphosphate-ribose polymerase inhibition and melanosome transfer inhibition. Improves facial elastic |
Summary of eye cream active ingredients and the periorbital skin concern they address
Periorbital skin concern | Eye cream ingredients to utilize |
Hyperpigmentation | Niacinamide, caffeine, vitamin E, vitamin C |
Puffiness | Caffeine |
Wrinkles | Caffeine, retinol, vitamin C, peptides, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide |
Through the improvement of hydration, elasticity, increases in collagen, and decreases in inflammatory mediators, these ingredients have been proven to affect aspects of the skin. The degree to which these changes lead to improvement in the physical appearance of the skin is not universally proven. While the mechanisms of these topicals on the skin have been tested, large clinical trials are needed to further investigate the comparability of efficacy and the combinations of ingredients within eye cream specifically. This is necessary to clearly establish the efficacy of various eye creams and determine their significance in comparison to other dermatologic products such as facial creams and serums.
NOT MY OWN WORK. Taken from:
Hamie H, Yassine R, Shoukfeh R, Turk D, Huq F, Moossavi M. A review of the efficacy of popular eye cream ingredients. Int J Womens Dermatol. 2024 Jun 13;10(2):e156. doi: 10.1097/JW9.0000000000000156. PMID: 38873621; PMCID: PMC11175953.
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